Foundations of Hair Color Theory

The Law of Color

Hair colorists must understand the fundamental principles of color theory to master their craft. The color wheel is a critical tool in this process, highlighting the relationships between primary (red, blue, yellow), secondary (green, orange, violet), and tertiary colors. Recognizing complementary colors, which are opposite on the wheel, is essential in neutralizing unwanted tones. For example, purple neutralizes yellow, while green counters red. By using the color wheel, colorists can control the end results, ensuring vibrancy and balance in their work.

Understanding the Level System

The level system is the backbone of all hair color formulations. Hair is classified into levels ranging from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde). Understanding this scale is crucial because it helps you identify both the natural hair level and the desired target level. This is particularly important when working with underlying pigments that surface as you lift the hair, such as orange in brunettes or yellow in blondes. Knowing how these pigments interact with color is key to achieving predictable results.

Tonal Families and Shades

Tones are categorized as warm, cool, or neutral, and they determine the overall shade of the color. Warm tones add vibrancy (think gold, copper), while cool tones add sophistication (think ash, blue). Neutral tones balance out both extremes. Understanding how to use these tonal families can help you create customized results that suit each client's skin tone, preferences, and lifestyle.